Prior to each event, follow these tips . These apply to any brake system from any manufacturer.
1.Check system for leaks:
a. Calipers
b. Master Cylinders
c. Brake Lines
d. All system valves and fittings
2. Freshen brake fluid from a new container*. Open the caliper bleed screw and manually push the pad/pistons back. Close the bleed screw. This evacuates the fluid that sees the most rotor heat from the caliper, and replaces it with fresh fluid from further upstream.
*Never buy brake fluid in containers larger than one quart. It begins deteriorating as soon as it is opened. Never pump the pedal while bleeding, this aerates the fluid. Press down; hold until bleed screw is closed, then lift. Repeat while alternating bleed screws and wheels. Never use standard automotive brake fluid! Racing brake fluid is specially formulated to handle the higher temperatures as well as limit the assimilation of moisture, which is the death of brake fluid. Our brake fluid is far superior to most fluids on the market, while still being very affordable.
3. Make sure that no brake drag is present [note:other manufacturer's caliper will always have some inherent drag]. Go to the troubleshooting chart for more information.
4. When replacing pads, always clean dirt from piston prior to retracting piston. Dirt pushed into the caliper can cause seal failure and drag.
5. Reseal calipers seasonally.
6. Never use an internal residual valve on a master cylinder. Line valves make it easier to see if one is installed and what pressure valve it is.
7. Brake Man calipers are rated to 2000 psi. We recommend not exceeding 1500 psi unless all the other components in the hydraulic system are similarly rated.
8. Bleed screws on caliper must always point up to 12:00 relative to the piston bore. If not, system will not bleed properly and an air trap will result.
9. Never grind on a caliper for wheel clearance. If the manufacturer didn't feel the material was needed, they would not have put it there!
10. After every race or few races, de-glaze the pad swept areas of the rotors with 80 grit sandpaper, using an orbital or air sander. This removes pad material buildup and allows for a consistent torque output.
